Mike Stuart and I had been planning to climb a multi-pitch rock route together for the last few weeks and settled on trying something on Yamnuska. We went back and forth on a few options and made some loose plans with a few options of routes that seemed interesting. When I picked Mike up in the morning, we solidified our 1st option on a route called Super Direct, 5.11a which has what appears to be, 8 or 9 fairly engaging pitches of 5.10+ - 5.11-.
Probably a touch too ambitious given our rocking climbing conditioning this early in the season. When we got to the base, someone was already on the nearby route Direttisma due rockfall concerns with the proximity of the two routes. We opted for something close by that perhaps was a bit more tame at 5.10- and also a bit shorter since we were slow walking up the trail and didn't exactly have a super early start.
Gargoyle (5.10a, 3 pitches) climbs up on the eastern side Yamnuska and is just to the right of the classic 5.9 route, Smeagol. The 1st ascent of the route was by Joe Josephson and Brian Spear. The first pitch follows a decent 5.7 crack and then the second crux pitch is 5.10a with a mix of natural gear, some pitons and few bolts where the rock becomes compact and won't accept gear. The last pitch takes a sharp traverse to the left and then up a corner system to the top. A worthwhile outing if you want to do a decent Yam route but don't have a lot of time.
If you are interested in either a rock climbing course or some private guiding on cliffs like Yamnuska or others like it, check out our website: www.can-rock.com.