George Gosbee gave me a ring and was on his way back from Cartenz Pyramid in Irian Jaya, New Guinea. He mentioned he would be a little jet lagged but wanted to do a climb and wondered what was in shape. A few storms had already put down 20-30cm of snow at 2000 meters elevation and there was anywhere between 50-100cm in the upper alpine depending on which aspects you were travelling. He had a few alpine routes in mind like Mt. Victoria or Castle Mountain and both might be doable but the conditions would have made each of those options tedious, uncomfortable and hazard prone as the glaciers had just enough snow to cover the crevasses and enough snow on the high alpine rock faces to make climbing slightly miserable.
I suggested Yamnuska as it sits on the far edge of the eastern slope of the Rockies and was dry as can be - even on the north facing side where the scrambling/decent route is. George had a long time friend Tom Valentine that he wanted to come along. John Price was coming to join us to give us some tips on mountain photography and Kris Irwin from Rockies Ice Specialists joined as well and we had spectacular day climbing a few moderate multi-pitch routes on the west end of Yamnuska.
We started on the corner for Easy Street and King's Chimney and after 2 pitches George, John and myself diverted slightly left and Tom and Kris climbed up King's Chimney so as to manage rockfall potential. The winds really picked up after a few pitches to the point where I had to be really cautious on the slabby moves and not get blown off my feet - the winds subsided and near the top of the BarBQ ledge the winds completely died down to where you could be in a T-Shirt. At the ledge we met up with Kris and Tom, polished up the afternoon with 2 more pitches of rock and then walked off and down the scree run. Felt pretty fortunate to squeeze one more day of summer/fall climbing in before the snow and cold came.