Learn to trad climb

Learn Trad Rock 101

Course Details

Learn to leading with traditional gear requires solid protection placement skills and evaluation strategies.  We will instruct you on how to make placements confidently by evaluating your mock leads.  On this course you will also learn how to construct bomber anchors using removable protection such as cams, nuts and hexes.

Skill Level

This program is considered an intermediate to advanced level program.  Participants will want a few years of climbing experience which include being able to competently climb up to 5.7-5.8 sport routes and have a rudimentary understanding of anchor systems.


This is a 2 day course that takes place typically on a weekend with a 4:1 ratio with an ACMG Mountain Guide with over 18 years of guiding and instructional experience.

Course Costs

Group Size
Day Rate
Price Per Person




*Please add 5% sales tax to the above amounts. *Additional expenses such as food, gear rental, park fees, transportation or accommodation not included. 4:1 Student to ACMG Instructor Ratio

learn to place gear

Course Dates

August 3-4, 2019

Course Information

Learn to Lead Trad Rock 101 is an intermediate to advanced course.


  • Learn to competently place running belay anchor points using traditional removable protection.
  • Understand fall factor mechanics and its relevance to traditional lead climbing systems .
  • Learn to construct anchors using removable and fixed point protection.

You will learn the following:

  • Discuss nuances of climbing traditional routes on different rock types.
  •  Thorough review of climbing hardware and soft good material strengths and weaknesses (dyneema slings, 6-8mm static cord, climbing ropes, hardware such as nuts, cams and hexes).
  • How place/remove ‘trad’ or removable protection and how to assess fixed anchor points (bolts and pitons).
  • How to construct high integrity traditional anchors using the DARN Solid and Timely model.  These evaluation models are the most up to date strategies currently being taught on the ACMG Rock Guide program.
  • How traditional lead climbing system works through demonstrations and mock leading skills practice.
  • How to select routes that are appropriate for your skill level.
  • Read deal leading strategies such as gathering information from guidebooks, racking up effectively for your route, visualization techniques, finding placement stances, anticipating cruxes and learning how to down climb when necessary.
  • What kind of belay devices are appropriate & also which devices are not for belaying a leader when placing removable protection and why.
  • Understanding the mental aspects of leading on traditional gear and learning to commit when the circumstances are in your favour and also when they are not.
  • Fall factor mechanics it’s relevance to understanding how lead climbing systems function.

CanRock Mountain Guides instructors are committed to giving their students highly personalized instruction with exceptionally low 4:1 student to instructor ratios.

This is not the industry norm, in fact most of our competitors facilitate their programs 6:1 ratios & charge the same rates.  

CanRock Mountain Guide’s low ratio programs allows your instructor to give meaningful & timely feedback in a small group setting and ensure each student’s learning style is accommodated.




For more information, please see below